CAPITOL HILL In contrast to Ballard’s historic preservation, a radical face-lift recently transformed much of once-scruffy Capitol Hill, a tangle of thriving musicians, coffeehouse devotees, and much of Seattle’s vibrant gay population. Now streets spill with happy partiers drinking up this cultural epicentre, an area that includes the art-deco Seattle Asian Art Museum (Seattle-artmuseum.org), picturesque Volunteer Park, the graves of Bruce and Brandon Lee, and dozens of houses of worship dedicated to the cult of excellent food. Settle into the midcentury-modern vibe at Harrison Modern (Harrisonmodern. com; from $99/night), where sleek furnishings complement architect Victor Martin’s 1951 cubic design. Four accommodations are so stylishly kitted out you’ll want to make new friends and host a retro barbecue on the deck of the Garden or South Pacific suite. Otherwise, here breakfast at The Wandering Goose (Thewanderinggoose.com) and lunch at Oddfellows Hall (Oddfellowscafe.com; ask to sit on the secret back patio). Shop NuBe Green (Nubegreen.com) and break the bank onEuropean designs at Totokaelo (Totokaelo.com)—and don’t miss the new men’s branch located downstairs. Walk down the hill for dinner at Melrose Market (Melrosemarketseattle.com), a onetime auto shop now home to independent fooderies, a bar, and shops. Chef Tamara Murphy’s Terra Plata (Terraplata.com) wins out on warm nights: the roof deck lined with grand pots of herbs, salad greens, and flowers is easily the city’s best outdoor dining moment.